Finding a compatible replacement TV board

Parts and decisions · Published 2026-10-24

The solder side of a flat-panel TV power supply board, removed from the set
A power supply board from a 40-inch LED TV, seen from the solder side. Photo: Raimond Spekking, CC BY-SA 4.0.

The right replacement board is the one with the same assembled part number, for the same TV model and version. Everything else is a compromise. This guide explains how to find that number and what to do when you cannot get an exact match.

Board Level does not sell parts or recommend sellers. The method below works the same whichever source you use: the manufacturer's parts service, an authorised service centre, a repair shop, a refurbisher, or a used board from a donor set.

Step 1: collect every number

  1. TV rating label: full model number with suffix, version or revision code, serial number. Photograph it.
  2. Old board sticker: the assembled part number, including the last letter or digits. Photograph it in focus.
  3. Old board PCB number: printed on the board itself.
  4. Panel label (for a T-con or plasma board): the panel model and revision on the panel's frame.
  5. Software version from the TV's menu, if it still starts.

Reading TV board part numbers explains which number is which for Samsung, LG, Sony, Panasonic and others.

Step 2: search the right number

Search for the sticker part number first, written exactly. Brand formats matter: hyphens in Samsung numbers (BN44-00289B), hyphens in Sony numbers (1-474-163-51, A-1727-314-A), slashes in Panasonic numbers (TXN/A1…). Online listings often drop or replace these characters, so also search the number without them.

If the sticker is missing, search the PCB number together with your TV model. Expect several different assembled parts to come up, and use the TV model and version to narrow down.

Service number versus PCB number

Service / assembly numberPCB number
IdentifiesThe finished board as supplied for serviceThe bare circuit board design
Includes components and firmware?YesNo: several assemblies can share one PCB
Matching on it aloneNormally reliable for the same TV model and versionRisky: may differ in parts, connectors or software

Step 3: check the version and suffix

Final letters and digits are not decoration. Within one family of numbers:

The manufacturer's own parts service is the authority on which numbers supersede which. A seller's "compatible with" list is useful, but it is the seller's claim, not the manufacturer's.

Board-specific points

Power supplies

Same connectors and same printed voltages are not proof of compatibility. Backlight drive current, standby behaviour and the control pins can differ. See power supply boards.

Main boards

The most sensitive match. Main boards carry software and panel settings for particular models. A main board from a "same model, different version" set can start but show the wrong picture, or not start at all. After fitting, check the model shown in the TV's information menu and update the firmware. See main boards.

T-con boards

Match to the panel model and the T-con's own number, not to the TV model. See T-con boards.

Plasma boards

Match to the panel. Some boards are best replaced as a set (a Y-sustain with its buffers, for example), and replacement boards may need their voltages set to the panel's label. See plasma TV boards.

LED strips

Match the strip's own printed number and the panel model, and note the position of each strip type. See LED backlight strips.

Judging a listing

Fitting the new board

  1. Follow the safety and ESD steps. Keep the new board in its bag until it goes in.
  2. Compare old and new side by side before fitting: connectors, jumpers, any small switches and, on plasma boards, adjustment potentiometers.
  3. Transfer any parts that belong to the set rather than the board, such as shields or insulating sheets.
  4. Reconnect cables using your photographs, latching each one fully.
  5. First power-up with the back still off, watching and listening for anything unusual.

If the new board does not fix it

Do not assume the new board is faulty. Check that the diagnosis was right (did the old board really fail?), that every connector is seated and latched, and that the new board is a true match. A board that fixes some symptoms but not others often points to a second fault, or to a different board that was the cause all along.